And the invasions! Top notch -- some truly impressive darkwraiths and DMBs. I had one fight that was balder side sword versus katana that started in the small room near the merchant, went all the way to the top of Havel's tower, and then BACK all the way to the bonfire before concluding (I lost). It was like a fencing scene from Captain Blood or something. And the level design absolutely sings when it comes to PvP. You have multiple open areas for standard duels, but also confined passageways and chokepoints for chases, and also numerous high spots for showering spells or arrows on people. At one point, a darkwraith had climbed up to the firebomb area and was dropping dragonslayer arrows on everyone, so I ran up the adjacent tower (with the archer on it) and started shooting down at him in return. Nearly every location has something nearby that can counter it. At the same time, a single player can fort up in numerous locations - such as on the rooftop where the throwing dagger corpse is - and hold off multiple enemies for a long time.
This was far and away the most fun I've ever had in DkS, and made PvP in the Kiln, painted world, and even forest seem boring and depressing. I don't know what else to say, just that if you haven't tried it yet you owe it to yourself to spend some time in the burg with a sl 120. As many know, you can keep Taurus alive by (among other things) going out Havel's door and looping around to the Parish via the bonfire near Andre. I plan to do this for every char here on out